More gushing adjectives have been thrown at Yosemite National Park (Web: www.nps.gov/yose ) than at any other part of California. However excessive the hyperbole may seem, the instant you turn the corner that reveals Yosemite Valley, you realize it's actually an understatement – this is one of the world's most dramatic geological spectacles. Just seven miles long and never more than one mile across,
It is walled by near-vertical three-thousand-foot cliffs, streaked by tumbling waterfalls and topped by domes and pinnacles that form a jagged silhouette against the sky. At ground level, grassy meadows are framed by oak, cedar, and fir trees; deer, coyotes, and even black bears are often seen. Tourists are even commoner, but the park is big enough to absorb the crowds: you can visit at any time of year, even in winter when the waterfalls ice up and the trails are blocked by snow, and, excepting summer, the valley itself is rarely overcrowded.Yosemite Valley was made by glaciers gouging through the canyon of the Merced River: the ice scraped away the softer granite leaving soaring cliffs. The lake that formed when the glaciers melted eventually silted up to create the present valley floor. Native Americans lived here in comparative peace until 1851, when the Gold Rush settlers of the Mariposa Battalion trailed the Native Americans into the foothills and beyond, becoming the first whites to set foot in Yosemite Valley. The native community was soon forced out to make way for farmers, foresters, and tourists. Thanks to the campaigning work of naturalist John Muir, in 1864 Yosemite Valley and Mariposa Grove were set aside as America's first protected wilderness. A Scottish immigrant who traveled the entire area on foot, Muir spearheaded the conservation movement that led to the founding of the Sierra Club, with the express aim of preserving Yosemite. In 1913, the construction of a dam in the Hetch Hetchy Valley just north, to provide water for San Francisco, was a setback; but the publicity actually aided the formation of the present National Park Service in 1916, which promised – and has since provided – greater protection. Park entry costs $20 per vehicle, $10 per pedestrian or cyclist, and is valid for seven days. Bus passengers get in free.
