Leh India - Leh, the capital city of Ladakh is a destination where you should head to if you are looking for a vacation with difference. The rugged landscape of the Leh India with towering mountains and precariously perched monasteries will enchant you completely.Travellers flock to Ladakh from all corners of the globe. This trans-Himalayan district of Jammu and Kashmir has now become a favourite of both adventure freaks and culture enthusiasts.
Leh is located in the Indus river valley at a crossroads of the old trading routes from Kashgar, Tibet, and Kashmir.
Its importance as a trading town slowed down with the partition of
British India, and ended with the closure of the border in 1962 during
the Sino-Indian war. Since the 1999 war with Pakistan, and the
consequent development of the Manali-Leh highway, it has become a
bustling tourist town, with large numbers of Kashmiri traders.
It's a small town, easy to get most places by foot. The old town
is a compact area of mud brick houses and narrow lanes directly to the
east of Main Bazar. Changspa is the agricultural "suburb" northwest of
the center, with many guesthouses.
Its elevation is approximately 3555 meters (11,490 feet), so take it easy on your first few days there or risk possible altitude sickness. Even experienced high altitude travellers (Andes) might have some trouble.
How to get there
There are two roads in to Leh, one from Manali in Himachal Pradesh in the south, and one from Srinagar
in the west. Both routes are equally spectacular in different ways, and
both are time consuming with winding, narrow roads, and numerous
military checkpoints.
The main advantage of taking the road from Srinagar, covering a
distance of 434 km (270 mi), is that it runs at a lower altitude, and
thereby reduces the risk and severity of altitude sickness. It is also
open longer - normally from the beginning of June to October - and
follows the traditional trade route between Ladakh and Kashmir, which
passes through many picturesque villages and farmlands. The disadvantage
is that it passes through areas of higher risk of militant troubles. It
takes two long days, with an overnight stop in Kargil. Tickets cost Rupees 370/470 on ordinary/deluxe buses.
The route from Manali to Leh, covering a distance of 473 km (294
mi), is one more commonly taken by tourists. It takes two days, normally
with an overnight stop either in Kyelong (alt. 3096) or in tent
accommodation in Sarchu (4253) or Pang (4500). Making the first stop in
Keylong drastically reduces the risk of altitude sickness (AMS). It
traverses one of the highest road passes in the world and is surrounded
by wild rugged mountains. The scenery is fantastic, though it is
definitely not for the faint hearted. This historical trade route was
linked to Yarkhand and was severed by the India-China war in 1962, and
later was transformed in to military supply road. Reliable access is
limited from mid-June to end-September, as it is blocked by snow for
rest of the year.
Clearing of snow on both these roads starts sometime in early
April. Once the whole road is cleared of snow and has been opened for
public transport.
By bus
State buses run from Srinagar and also privately operated deluxe
buses.From Manali HPTDC,( Himachal Pradesh Tourist Development
Corporation), operate Deluxe buses that stop overnight in Keylong ,
between July and September. Costs Rs 2000.HRTC , Himachal Road Transport
Corporation, the state run buses ply the road during the officially
open period, allowing you to stop in a number of places along the way.
Total cost Rs. 130 (Manali-Keylong) + Rs 513(Keylong-Leh) . Private
buses stop in Keylong , Darcha or Sarchu - the last alternative (eight
hundred meters higher than Leh ) involving a high incidence of altitude
sickness.
It is possible to book tickets direct Leh-Delhi, but it is recommended
to spend a few days in Manali resting.
By jeep
The fastest way to get to Leh from Manali is by 'jeep'. Shared jeeps
do the trip in one long day (of about 20-24 hours) as opposed to two
short ones on the bus. Keep in mind that that all single day rides comes
with a risk of being stranded near five thousand meters without being
acclimatized , with severe altitude sickness as a result. The journey
costs up to Rs 1500 for a seat on a shared jeep. During the high
season tickets for the jeep rides must be bought in advance of the day
of departure and the main street in old Manali is full of ticket touts,
you won't have to find them for yourself.
Leaving Manali before dawn, arrival in Leh is sometime after
sunset. Although this is the longest and most uncomfortable car journey
you will ever take it's an experience unparalleled in India. Crossing
overthe five thousand meter passes affords views of stunning and the
bizarre territory. It is advised to take a front seat in the jeep and by
NO MEANS allow yourself to be seated in the boot. These seats (in the
boot) are inward facing and 24 hours sitting on one of those will take
all the pleasure out of the trip.
Privately hired jeep allows the luxury of stopping wherever you
like, and allow you to decide on how many people you will travel in your
group.
If you are coming from Srinagar, go to #1 taxi stand in town. Book only your seat on sumo taxi jeep to Kargil
for Rs. 500. Stay overnight. Book your seat for Leh from Kargil and pay
400 rupees upon arrival in Leh. Get them to drop you at Fort Road which
is the heart of the tourist area and accommodation is close by. Make
sure you ask for middle seat in the taxi. Too crowded in the front and
too uncomfortable in the back. Fantastic scenery for whole two days.
If you are coming from Leh, you can buy tickets either from
various agencies around the town, or directly from office located in bus
station. It is in the first floor of the nortern (uphill) building,
doors facing away from the buses. Price there was Rs. 1500 for front
seat in September 2009, and the ride down to Manali took 23 hours
starting midnight.
By truck
It is also possible to travel between Leh and Manali by truck. These
trucks ply the route when it opens in summer and they will be no new
sight for anyone who has been in India for even a few days. Making the
490 km (304 mi) journey in the cab of one of these trucks is an
experience; they are not as comfortable as the jeeps, nor do they give
as good visibility as either jeeps or buses, and take anywhere up to 3
days to complete; but sleeping in the cab and eating the same food as
the locals is worth it. You can pre-arrange truck drivers in Manali by
going to the main truck stop in the new town. Here the drivers stop on
their way from Delhi to Leh and will be more than happy to give you a
ride for 500 rupees. Make sure you don't pay before you travel. In Leh
there is a similar truck park. Try to pick a truck with the least amount
of passengers already otherwise your trip will be even less
comfortable. Travelers staying longer in Ladakh are likely to find
themselves traveling by truck at some point, and probably don't need to
go out of their way to take one.
By motorcycle
The road from Manali to Leh is often known as a Biker's Paradise.
Bikes (motorcycles) are available for rent at Manali. A popular place is
Hardev Motors - located behind the Private Bus Parking Ground. Also
Into Himalayas, near Manali mall road is a great place for bikes,
especially Enfields.
When biking to Leh it is advisable to travel at a slow pace to
allow acclimatization. A suggested itinerary is: Day 1 Manali - Jispa
(110 km; 68 mi), Day 2 Jispa - Pang (130 km; 81 mi), and Day 3 Pang -Leh
(130 km; 81 mi). Essential supplies include: puncture repair kit, spare
clutch cables and some good carriers (to hold luggage). The next bike
workshop after Manali is Keylong (110 km; 68 mi) and then at Leh (400
km; 249 mi).
By plane
Planes fly year round, and are the only option in the winter. Book
early and give yourself at least a few days of flexibility as flights
are often delayed due to weather conditions. Air India, Jet Airways and
Kingfisher Red have daily flights from Delhi. Air India Flights are
also available from Srinagar, and Jammu.
Those arriving by air are strongly advised to rest for at least
one day in order to acclimatize to the high altitude. (See article on altitude sickness)
When leaving, make sure you have a printed copy of your ticket, otherwise you will not be able to enter the airport.
By train
The closest train stations are Pathankot or Chandigarh, both at least three days away by bus. A new station added recently is Udhampur which is linked by rail to Jammu. Please check the Train schedule as trains may not run on daily basis.
Leh is small enough to walk most places, most notable exception being
the airport, for which it's advisable to take a taxi for around 100 to
150 Rupees, although you could even walk there if you really wanted to
save the money. However do not count of walking up to the center after
landing and with your luggage. First day in this thin air is difficult!
Places to See
For such a historic site and popular tourist destination, Leh has surprisingly few tourist sights:
- The former Palace of the King of Ladakh (admission 100rps). The most noticeable building in Leh, the palace was built in the 17th century, and now undergoing restoration. There's not much to see on the inside, but there are good views outside.
- Buddhist temples:
- Namgyal Tsemo Gompa - above the Palace, built 1430, is only open from 7AM-9AM during the morning puja.
- Soma Gompa - just around the corner from Main Bazar, it's a large modern gompa. It's also the location of the Ladakhi Buddhist Association, a conservitive political orginisation, with ties to Hindutva groups.
- Karma Dupgyud Choeling - monastery in the Karma Kagyu tradition
- The small mosque
- Shanti Stupa : built by a Japanese Buddhist group. This modern stupa is somewhat kitschy, but still worth a visit.
- Pangong Tso A beautiful lake with deep blue waters, surrounded by tall mountain peaks. This lake lies on the Indo - China boundary, with only one fourth of the lake being in India. The road to this lake passes through Chang-la pass , claimed to be at 5425 meters. It's a five hour drive (149 Kms) from Leh to this place. There is also a small camp on the way where a Yak Safari can be done. The passage is also very tough to cross by car. So a four-wheel drive car is recommended. Experienced bikers should not have any problem. It doesn't make much sense to arrive and leave on the same day, since you won't be able to see much during the 60 minutes your being there. Therefore t is recommended to stay at least for one night, if not two.
- Monasteries in Ladakh : Most travellers use Leh as a base to visit the numerous gompas , the Buddhist monasteries of Ladakh.
- War Museum (War Museum, Leh). Fascinating place run by the Indian Army showcasing the history, glory and the tools of the trade related to army operations defending India in some of the most hostile terrain in the world. It also has a fascinating display on the Siachen battlefield - the highest and more arduous battlefield in the world.
- Donkey Sanctuary (Home for helpless donkeys). The sanctuary is situated just off the road leading to Khardungla Pass. The public is encouraged to visit the sanctuary and friendly signs will direct you to the sanctuary from the center of Leh. It is no more than a pleasant 5 to 10 minute stroll from the main road to the Sanctuary and the artistic surprise awaiting you is well worth the effort. It is open to the public throughout the day and donations and juicy carrots are most welcome and used exclusively for improving the lives and welfare of these wonderful animals. Free.
Things to Do
- Leh is the place to prepare for a trekking in Ladakh, which offers a huge number of possible trekking routes.
- White-water rafting : on the Zaskar and Indus rivers is also organised from Leh. Please be advised that the Indus rafting route from Nimmu towards the Pakistani border has rapids of increasing severity which run along the grades of 4, 4+, and 5; the latter two grades being not for the very faint of heart.
